Setup: Single Z (normal) + MGN + Bowden+ F623 Bearings
You made it!
Below you will find a list of all the parts you need to build the Mod. The links for the print files will take you to my GitHub, where you can download all STLs in a zip. Below the listing of the needed parts and files you can start with the build instructions. I have tried my best to make everything as easy to understand as possible. If you still have any questions feel free to join my Discord. Please add your setup-code to the question (SnMB623). I also added my Klipper settings at the very end of the page.
Bill of Materials:
Printed parts you need:
Hardware parts you need:
|Reuse from Printer?
|20T Pulley - 8mm Bore
|One for each side on the Rod, one for the printed 80T Gear.
|DFH.fm Full Kit (US)
Powge Motion Kit (Aliexpress)
|16T Pulley - 5mm Bore
|Don't buy the cheapest. You should go for belts with glassfiber. Width: 6mm
|188mm Looped Belt
|2 bearings per side. Size: 3*10*4mm
|Do you have an old skateboard? You can steal the bearings from the wheels 😉
|Just go to your local hardware store and take a cheap 8mm (aluminium) rod. You don't have to buy a hardened steel one. (expensive and hard to cut). You also could use your leadscrew.
|It's very important to get pins with the tolerance class H6 or H7. Most pins are M6 which wouldn't fit. You can also use the old bottom parts which used M3x20mm screws instead of pins.
|300mm Linear Rail MGN-12H
|It's very very very important to get good quality rails. Don't get cheap rails otherwise you would ruin your setup. Rails I tested: Robotdigg Rails, VonWange Rails (EU-Shop), Fermio Rails (EU-Shop). The linked CNA rails are recommended by the Voron team and widely used, but I haven't tested them on my own.
|Add 6 for PowerSupply holder if needed. Any type of M5x8mm screw can be used.
|yes (3 x)
|Screwhead must fit under the extrusion from the X-Axis. (Take a look at 5:20 of my video) You also could use a stock 40mm screw from the left side of the printer and place this on the inside of the right side. This way you can use any type of screwhead for the remaining holes.
|Add 6 for PowerSupply hodler if needed.
|If you have no screws, you should buy a kit. (Just an example. I haven't tested this Kit!)
|Not included in the kit I linked.
|Motor extension cable
|The original Cable is obviously too short^^ The linked cable is just an example, any motor cable would work with the white JST-XH connectors on the end. Check if the middle cables are crossed!!! If your motor is moving in the wrong direction rotate the plug by 180° (--> change the order of the cables in the plug from 1234 to 4321) or change the motor direction in firmware.
|Petg or ABS (+)
|~ 400 g
|Yes you can use PLA, but you shouldn't 😉 If you have an enclosure, use ABS.
Note: The Kits are highly recommended! With the kits you get tested and matching parts (rod and bearing tolerances; but most importantly matching belt and pulley teeth).
With your help, this mod has grown bigger than I could have ever dreamed! I am very happy that two great vendors are selling kits for my mod:
!Note for Powge! Check before you start the build: Recently some Powge kits arrived with wrong hardware, eg. a 20T-5mm bore pulley instead of the 16T-5mm bore (for the motor) or a 202mm looped belt instead of a 188mm looped belt. While you can fix the Pulley problem by changing the steps (400-->320 steps for Marlin, 80:20 gear ratio (rotation distance of 40) for Klipper) the looped belt requiers a modified transmission body (remix is on Thingiverse)
The picture shows how your Ender will look like in the end. The build is divided into individual chapters which you can select by clicking on the image. Just click on the section you want to build. The instructions will open in a new tab, so after you finished the chapter you can select the next one on this page.
You can add the Gear-Ratio in Klipper if you want, but you don't have to:
!!PLEASE ADAPT THE PINS!!
full_steps_per_rotation: 200 #200 for 1.8 degree, 400 for 0.9 degree